A new humanism

Michelangelo used to say that whoever had the skill to draw held a great treasure. One needs only to look up at the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel to fully appreciate the extent of this seemingly elemental statement, even though the skill of the legendary Italian artist went well beyond drawing: he painted, sculpted, designed buildings, composed poetry and even engineered the removal and transportation of huge marble blocks from the quarry to his studio. He embodied the perfect blending of imagination and creativity with the rigorous material demands of making. After the Renaissance, and particularly since the advent of the industrial revolution, such blending has become more and more rare, and has been replaced with specialisation and fragmentation. The loss of the ideal unity between art and craft, between creating and making, has caused the “intelligence of the hand” to come under threat: the arrival of serial production, the progressive devaluation of the métiers d’art, have caused many high-level artisanal activities to suffer a deep crisis and, in many cases, extinction. Over the last half century, the once highly valued role of the master craftsman has been threatened by globalisation, the digital revolution and technological advancements. And the bias against what we do with our hands has created a gap between those who imagine things and those who make them.

South African business luminary Johann Rupert and Italian entrepreneur, author and cultural authority Franco Cologni (who share a long-standing friendship) have joined forces to tackle this serious and delicate situation. Together they have created the Michelangelo Foundation for Creativity and Craftsmanship, the aim of which is to bridge this gap by attracting new talent to the crafts, re-establishing the true value of artisanal expertise, and promoting the creation of new objects that reflect contemporary taste and demands.

BottegaNove

BottegaNove creates decorated mosaic pieces both in ceramics and porcelain.
We have met Christian Pegoraro, a third-generation master ceramist, who has been able to re-interpret the ancient tradition of ceramics processing through innovative thinking.

What is the story of BottegaNove? How did you start your activity?
BottegaNove was created at the end of 2013, with the aim to produce decorated mosaic pieces in ceramics and porcelain, following the working process used in artistic ceramics. I grew up amidst ceramics in Nove, where my grandfather established his own artistic manufacture firm in 1964. The activity was then continued by my father and is now carried forward by myself and another associate partner.
Over the years, we have cooperated with important firms in the coating sector, providing specific decorations based on high-end craftsmanship and excellent manual skills. Thanks to this field experience and to Nove’s traditional savoir-faire, I decided to embark on an individual pathway in mosaic production, with an immediately innovative approach, cooperating with people who did not come from the world of production, but were able to work on ideas and creativity in transversal fields, like architect Cristina Celestino.

What kind of products do you create?
We mostly create decorated mosaic pieces for ceramics and porcelain coating. We are also active in the field of artistic ceramics, especially for so-called traditional productions, but we are now working toward achieving unprecedented, research-based results by blending two-dimensional coating production and artistic ceramic production.
We consider ourselves as a “happy island” within the mosaic and tile landscape: we are among the very few who are still carrying forward a tradition of handmade tile production and decoration within the standardised, anonymous scenery of the coating sector.
The Plumage collection typifies the cooperation between our savoir-faire and Cristina Celestino’s creative vision and research. For this project we have produced ad-hoc moulds giving shape to three-dimensional tesserae, with bas-relief veining. The project has been realised both in porcelain (with a 100% Limoges mixture) and in ceramics. Porcelain is paste-dyed, while ceramics tesserae may be either monochromatic (with or without colour-changing lustres) or hand-decorated. Our point of reference rests on birds’ plumage: variety springs both from the plumage colours or from the multifarious combinations we can achieve.
Thus, the strong points of our work are enhanced by this project, allowing us to explore, within one single theme, an endless variety of decorations – even customised ones – and to achieve the most varied results by assembling different kinds of tesserae (as we did in the panels on display in the Fuorisalone). The chromatic and material vibrations from the tesserae turn this versatile, rich project into an actual interior design project.

Ezia Di Labio

What is your story? And how did you started your activity?
After graduating at the Artistic High School in Pescara, I moved to Bologna where I started studying violin. The violin-maker Master Otello Bignami used to take care of my instrument and I used to spend more time in his laboratory than practicing: his work really inspired me more than other disciplines and he, as a very sensitive person, understood that. For this reason he proposed me to attend a 4-year educational training for violin-makers that would take place in Bologna under his guide: I was starting my career!

Which are the main features of the Bolognese method in the construction of a violin?
In the history of the Bolognese school, several masters have expressed their personality and style, with shapes and models that are absolutely recognizable; the construction process is characterized by using the internal shape, the edges are well rounded, and the threads’ tips have the particular “pungiglione” (sting). The Bolognese paint is recognizable by its red tones.

Hèléne Moreau

Which is your history?
In 1986 I moved to Palermo, joining a group of friends who were musicians, craftsmen and artists. At time, I was coming from working experiences in the social sector in France and with that know-how I started a new life in Palermo, where I got deeply in contact with the world of the theatre and of the stage.
That was a really important opportunity that allowed me to experiment the technique of Serti on silk (a colouring technique) both in the realization of theatrical costumes and in set-design.

Why have you chosen Ortigia as main location?
With my partner, who is now my husband, we created a professional training course of fabric decoration where I taught the Serti technique to many women, not only from Palermo. Then I’ve been working for traditional performances, creating costumes for the Curculio di Plauto, and on that occasion I discovered Ortigia, amazing white pearl on a shining sea…such an inspiration for the production of my silk foulards!
In 1992 we moved to Ortigia. At time, nothing was suggesting a touristic development of the area, when I started to work with passion.
Now that Ortigia has become a very popular touristic centre I still work with even more motivation to my artisanal production.

The Horn Museum in Florence

Herbert Percy Horne was an architect, scholar and art collector from London. When he founded the Horne Museum, his purpose was to make a prestigious exhibition site for his collections out of his residence, but also a vibrant cultural place to learn from history and art.
Besides the painting “Santo Stefano” by Giotto, standing out for its importance, the rooms of the Museum house the works of many other important artists, like Filippo Lippi, Bernardo Daddi, Simone Martini, Pietro Lorenzetti, Dosso Dossi, Antonio Rossellino, Jacopo Sansovino, Agnolo di Polo, Jacopo del Sellaio, Luca Signorelli, Pietro di Giovanni d’Ambrosio, Niccolò di Segna, Piero di Cosimo, Desiderio da Settignano, Bartolomeo Ammannati, Lorenzo di Credi, Carlo Dolci, Gian Lorenzo Bernini, Domenico Beccafumi, Giambologna and a precious panel by Masaccio: more than six thousand pieces of art are displayed.
These extraordinary works of painting, sculpture, pottery, goldsmithing, furnishing, plating and weaving have been coexisting with elegance and harmony in the Corsi Palace since the end of the XIX century, in the area of Santa Croce in Florence.

Passing the torch

110 young talents selected to take part in the programme “A School, a Job. Training to Excellence”, in which Italy’s top masters craftsmen pass on their trade secrets to the artisans of the future, have been celebrated with a special event in Milan. If you could choose your mentor, someone who has mastered the craft and moulded with passion and dedication the secrets of an invaluable trade, who would you pick? That is the question that some of Italy’s most promising artisans have had the good fortune to ask themselves, thanks to a special project created by the Cologni Foundation for the Métiers d’Art, an institution whose mission is to safeguard the relationship between master and apprentice, where wisdom empowers budding enthusiasm. “What I appreciate most about the project is that we give these young men and women the opportunity to work with someone who knows how to create and, most importantly, how to teach, which is the quality that defines a real master,” says Alberto Cavalli, Director of the Cologni Foundation for the Métiers d’Art. “The fusion of these two elements – the ability to hand down a beautiful profession and the desire to learn and perfect a skill – can radiate a powerful energy!”

Painted in stone

The beautiful tradition of mosaic works fashioned in semiprecious stones that originated in the Italian Renaissance is still carried on today in the heart of Florence by the Scarpelli family: in the workshop Le Pietre nell’Arte, this art finds a natural continuation under the banner of absolute and acknowledged excellence. This particular mosaic technique, with which extraordinary pictorial and decorative effects can be achieved, is called commesso fiorentino from the Latin “committere”, to bring together, to unite.
It was originally developed in the second half of the 15th century, but this art flourished under the enlightened patronage of the Medici family: first with Francis I and then Ferdinand I, who founded the glorious Opificio delle Pietre Dure (Workshop for Hard Stone) in 1588. Indeed, most of the specialised artisans who decorated the Medici’s magnificent Cappella dei Principi in the Basilica di San Lorenzo, a masterpiece of this technique, were trained in the Florentine Workshop. Many extraordinary artworks were produced with these inlays in semiprecious stones, ranging from furniture to ornaments and even magnificent copies of paintings, and the Florentine masters became famous throughout the world for their inventiveness and skill, until the decline of the Medici and Lorraine dynasties in the late 19th century.
The ancient and laborious art of commesso is perpetuated today by master craftsman Renzo Scarpelli and his son Leonardo: both artisans command with unmatched skill every phase of this technique, from selecting the stones to cutting them, smoothing and polishing the surface, exploiting every shade and variety of colour in the natural stones to create astonishing “stone paintings”. The expressive power and pictorial delicacy of their works is awe-inspiring, as one does not expect so much beauty to emerge from a material as difficult and hard as stone… Tuscan landscapes, Florence and the Arno, children and animals playing, country scenes, seascapes, still lives, flowers, jewels, objects and miniatures, replicas of famous paintings… all appeal to us for their poetry and perfect execution.

Looking for the common thread between artists and artisans

What links Art and Artisanship? This is an old and complex question: a diatribe that belongs to the modern era, and which conceptual art seems to have intensified since the 1960s. However, conceptual art could not exist without the support of skilled artisans and, in a way, the very methods involved in conceptual art strengthen its relationship with craftsmanship. The term artisanship does not refer only to traditional crafts, of course, but also to those associated with industry. This may seem a contradiction, but it is not.

By way of example, let us consider the different approach to neon of two conceptual artists: minimalist Dan Flavin employs standard neon light strips that can be found in electric supplies stores, without any artisanal customisation; whereas Joseph Kosuth, whose works are written in neon, relies on a specialised craftsman to shape his creations. The use of neon is even more evident in artists like Lucio Fontana, who is well known for his Spatial Light–Structure in Neon, a large design-doodle exhibited at the 9th Milan Triennial of 1951; or, following in his footsteps, the neon signs and words by Mario Merz; and again, more recently and formally closer to Fontana, Pietro Roccasalva’s Jockey Full of Bourbon II (2006), a neon sign-drawing designed to fill a space from floor to ceiling. I have chosen these examples to demonstrate that there are various forms and types of craftsmanship, without which many works of art that are considered central to modernity and contemporaneity would not exist. Such as Dan Flavin’s box-like metal sculptures, which are made by highly skilled craftsmen in metal and wood, challenging industrial production with their knowledge and expertise. Having said this, and the list of examples is long, it should also be underlined that Kosuth’s and Judd’s conceptual art and pure minimalism were presented, at the request of the artists themselves, as a denial of craftsmanship; the inherent premise was that what counts is the idea, and that, since craftsmanship is principally associated with the manual ability to create, the artists should not dirty their hands.

The counter-reaction, after the mid-1970s, came from a few artists who began to reaffirm the power of the hand and the value of know-how. Like Enzo Cucchi, who had ceramic tongues pop out of his paintings, or gave them ceramic frames, before going on to producing sculptures in the same material, often in the shape of a vase, aided mainly by craftsmen in Castelli (Abruzzo) but also in Vietri (Campania), where he created, with Ettore Sottsass, one of his famous works. However, to validate the initial premise, it should be noted that even Cucchi did not dirty his hands with clay, since his works were physically made by the artisans. So in terms of the practical creative process, there does not appear to be much difference between a neon by Fontana or Kosuth and a sculpture by Cucchi. Needless to say, when we see an artwork made in neon words we do not immediately associate it with the work of an artisan. But we do when we see a ceramic vase or a sculpture in wood. We should also ask ourselves why we are not inclined to associate craftsmanship with a marble sculpture: could it be the noble nature of the material? In any case, a transition took place between the 1970s and the 1980s, and at the end of the decade artists were no longer ashamed to extol the qualities of craftsmanship. Of which, on the contrary, they demonstrated to be proud both in their statements and in their work. The Italian conceptual artist Alighiero Boetti anticipated this process in the arts when, back in the early 1970s, he began to create his works with tapestry and Afghan carpet weavers. He celebrated artisanship, which is why, in this age of neo-craftsmanship, many artists see Boetti as a point of reference. Luigi Ontani, another example in this tradition, employed Indian artisans for some of his photography works and Ceramica Gatti for his mostly life-size sculptures, which depict himself in different and amusing roles. Many other artists are following in the same steps. Celebrity artist Jeff Koons, for example, is known for his ceramic artworks and his wooden sculptures, which are in fact made by the craftsmen of Val Gardena, whom Koons outsourced the erotic sculptures of himself with Ilona Staller-Cicciolina as well as animal and flower sculptures; nor did he disdain marble cats carved by the artisans of Carrara, dog-shaped porcelain vases and Kamasutra glass sculptures. These and many other artists draw heavily on craft knowledge, Italian in particular, of which our peninsula abounds in its numerous artisan districts with elevated quality and productive output.

And, as mentioned earlier, this trend is not limited to traditional crafts like pottery and woodwork, but it embraces also modern crafts, including neon working, mannequin sculpting by film industry artisans and animal embalming for Cattelan’s taxidermy artworks – all of which were made in Italy. Some artists push themselves as far as the Orient: Ontani went to Bali to let Balinese artisans carve his visionary pule wood masks, and Belgian artist Wim Delvoye travelled to Thailand to have his full-size Cement Truck, bulldozers and excavators baroquely sculpted by Thai craftsmen. Yet in recent years the most monumental work is perhaps Sunflower Seeds by the controversial Chinese artist Ai Weiwei: 100 million porcelain sunflower seeds, made and decorated by hand, were spread to form a 10-centimetre carpet weighing 150 tonnes over the vast floor of the Turbine Hall at London’s Tate Modern in 2010. At the end of the exhibition, the gallery bought eight million seeds for its collection. This mammoth project involved 1,600 craftsmen from Jingdezhen, an area renowned for porcelain crafts, in the creation of an installation consisting of 100 million ceramic sunflower seeds to represent the 100 million victims of the Mao era: a work that expresses 100 million common threads between Artisanship and Art.

Gianluca Pacchioni

The atelier of Gianluca Pacchioni, master in the art of forging metals and recently nominated among the 75 MAM-Maestro d’Arte e Mestiere, that encompass some of the most talented artisans in Italy, is in Milan: in particular, it is located in a building from the Thirties which used to be an eye-drops factory.

Which is your history?
After a degree at the Bocconi University in Milan, I moved to Paris.
Here, during the 90s, I got in touch with the artistic universe of the French capital and I discovered my passion for metal sculpting: I started to practice it first as a self-taught apprentice, in a studio shared with other artists at Quai de la Gare. These experimentations led to my very first collection of metal sculptures: pieces of furniture presented by the Vivendi Gallery in Place des Vosges.
These were intense years, during which I absorbed beauty and creativity taking part in the artistic life of the city, attending the ateliers and the underground squats. Paris is democratically open to the young artists: there is a culture of sharing and easy access to the teachings and public subsidies.
But the artisanal realization of the pieces is something else: it is much more difficult to make your own project come true.
My return to Milan was necessary to work in close connection with the Italian artisans, and to treasure their expertise and creativity.
The transition from designer to “homo faber”, that marked my history, derives from this close relation with craftsmen.

G. Inglese

We have interviewed G. Inglese, a famous shirt maker, greatly appreciated for his care and passion for realising bespoke tailored clothing.

What is your story? How did you start your activity?
Our activity started in 1955, in Ginosa, “the land of Gravine”, a few kilometres from Matera¸ with an atelier founded by my father with his brothers and my grandmother, a shirt manufacturer. When I took over, nearly fifteen years ago, my only purpose was to make our traditional hand-crafted products known and appreciated by an international clientele. We did not aim at establishing an industrial management devoted to sales and revenue, or an ordinary warehouse with industrial machinery. Conversely, we wanted to create a product based on traditional sewing machines or thread and needles for finishing and embroidery work. There is a famous anecdote about our former Prime Minister – a regular client of ours – who, on one occasion, wore a very tasteless folklore shirt, which had been ascribed to me. The Japanese press, followed by the British, American and Italian press, attacked me. I stood up in my defence and, unwittingly and paradoxically, I gained greater visibility for my shirts. We started being visited by many customers from all over the world, coming and browsing around our atelier to enjoy our shirt-making art.